Crate training

[LiiL_L0cz]

Here are some more tips on crate training:

A dog who is trained to be content in a crate can be kept safe when traveling in a car, visiting someone else’s home, or being transported in an airplane. Some dogs really take to the crate, preferring to sleep in it or take refuge there when things get too hectic. Other dogs are never happy in the crate, but will tolerate it when necessary. Still other dogs panic when closed in a crate.

When to use a crate
The use of a crate is especially helpful when introducing a new puppy or dog to the household. The crate can be used to facilitate house training, and to prevent the dog or puppy from engaging in destructive or inappropriate behavior. Puppies need to be taught to inhibit certain behaviors while in the home, such as digging at the furniture and rugs, chewing table legs and cushions, and stealing from the garbage cans or counters. This teaching is only possible when you can observe and monitor the dog’s behavior. Crating can be a lifesaver when this is impossible—when you leave the dog home alone, for example.

WHAT NOT TO DO
Crates can be easily misused:
- The crate should NOT be used to contain a dog simply because the dog is a nuisance and requires attention. A puppy or young dog can be annoying and exhausting, but it is unfair and negligent to lock the animal up rather than provide the training he needs.
- A dog should never be left in a crate for extended periods of time. An 8- to 16-week-old puppy should not crated for longer than an hour at a time, except for during the night. A four- to six-month-old puppy shouldn’t be crated for longer than a two- to three-hour period.
- An adult dog can be crated for as long as eight hours, but it is unreasonable to expect a dog to be content in a crate if he hasn’t received adequate exercise beforehand. A dog should only be crated during an eight-hour workday if he has been given at least 30-60 minutes of exercise beforehand. This is even more of a concern if the dog is crated at night as well —in which case he should receive 60-90 minutes of exercise outside, in the morning, before being placed back in the crate.

Should crating ever be used as a means of punishing the dog? If this is the only way the crate is used, the dog may come to dislike the crate. Some dogs will view the crate as a safe refuge, seeking it out to escape further punishment. It is acceptable to use the crate sparingly as a time-out place, but the dog should have many additional pleasant experiences with the crate, to counteract any possible negative associations.

A dog who is prone to guarding his belongings may also guard the area around his crate. Always be cautious when walking by an open crate or when removing such a dog from his crate. Do not reach in for the dog—either entice him out or lift the crate up from the back to “spill” the dog out. Some dogs appear to feel vulnerable and “trapped” in a crate, and may react with aggression when approached by unfamiliar people or dogs while inside.

HOW TO TEACH YOUR DOG TO ENJOY HIS CRATE
The instructions that follow are designed to teach a dog to enjoy being in a crate. The speed with which you progress depends upon the dog and whether he already dislikes the crate. If your dog has a history with the crate and is now reluctant to go in, get a different type of crate and work through the steps very slowly. There are wire crates, plastic airline crates, and mesh crates. The mesh crate is the most portable but is inappropriate for dogs who are big on chewing. The mesh and airline crates provide the most privacy for the dog. Some dogs like to have a blanket or towel draped over the wire crate to give a more “denlike” feel. Truly crate-phobic dogs may need preliminary training with crate-like structures. For instance, you might wish to teach the dog to walk under a suspended tarp, step between two upright boards, or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (top removed) before ever introducing him to a crate. Difficult dogs also benefit from training to sit, down, stay, and to step forward and back, as this gives you more precision in instructing the dog on exactly what behavior you’d like him to perform.

The following instructions incorporate the use of a clicker to precisely indicate the behavior you are reinforcing. You can also use a verbal sound marker (such as a clearly enunciated “yes”) whenever you see the indication to click. You may wish to begin using an airline crate with the door removed, or simply leave it ajar; flip the door of a mesh crate up over the roof. And remember, always progress through the steps at a pace that is appropriate for your dog. Repetition is the key to success, but you don’t want to bore the dog by staying at one step for too long.

1. Sit down in front of the crate with your dog. Have a supply of whatever treats he really likes. Show him a treat and toss it just inside the mouth of the crate. Allow the dog to reach in and take the treat. Repeat several times, sometimes requiring that he step a little further inside the crate. Always permit him to step back out at will.

2. Show the dog a treat and move as though you are tossing it inside the crate. When the dog looks in the crate, click or say “Yes!” and toss the treat inside. After a few repetitions, wait for the dog to actually take a step toward the crate before clicking and tossing the treat inside. Once the dog is taking a step toward the crate, you are well on your way. With each repetition, always allow the dog to come back out of the crate. If he prefers to stay inside (presumably he’s figured out that he gets treats in there), give him a second treat for coming back out.

3. Dog takes two steps toward the crate, click and toss a treat into the mouth of the crate.

4. Dog moves to the crate and sticks his head inside the mouth, click and toss a treat into the crate.

5. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

6. Dog moves to the crate and places one front foot, then the other, into the crate, click and toss a treat into
the crate.

[LiiL_L0cz]

7. Dog moves to the crate, places both front feet in the crate, then takes another step deeper into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

8. Dog moves to the crate, steps into the crate, and places one rear foot into the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate.

9. Dog moves to the crate, steps inside the crate, and places rear feet in the crate, click and toss a treat into the crate. At this point, the dog may back out of the crate or may turn around and walk forward out of the crate. Give a second treat when the dog exits the crate. Turning in the crate is preferred to exiting, as it sets you up nicely for subsequent steps. If the dog is inclined to back out, try reaching in with a treat in your hand, and luring the dog around. If the dog is nervous when you reach in, try a wider crate. He may feel more comfortable turning in a wider space or he may be more comfortable with you luring him around. Once turning is well established, wean off reaching in and luring him.

10. Dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, click and quickly reach inside to hand the treat.

11. Introduce a verbal cue to tell the dog to go inside the crate, such as “Go in your crate,” “Get in your box,” “Load up,” etc. Say this just prior to your dog moving toward the crate. If the dog starts to move to the crate before you tell him, that’s fine.

12. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, and takes a step toward the exit, click and reach inside to hand the treat. You should skip this step if the crate is so small that the dog can only take one step before exiting the crate.

13. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down—whichever he is most likely to do. When he does, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. If you need to, cue the dog to sit or lie down, and then reach inside to lure the dog into position.

14. Cue the dog to get in the crate, dog moves to crate, steps inside, turns around, cue the dog to sit or lie down: when he does, cue him to stay, wait 1-2 seconds, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit.

15. The dog should begin to automatically sit or lie down when he goes into the crate, without you having to cue him. If, at any time, the dog exits the crate before completing the full sequence of turning and sitting or lying down or staying, say “Too bad!” and withhold the treat. Start again. If he fails more than twice in a row, do something to help him succeed—maybe reach in with a treat to lure him to step farther inside or to adopt the sit or lie down position. Rely on this only once or twice; after that, he should be expected to perform the sequence himself. If he still fails, quit the session (maybe the dog is tired of the training) or revert to an earlier step and get an easier behavior well established before progressing again.

16. When the dog can go inside the crate, sit or lie down and stay for 10-20 seconds, begin closing the door. With a wire or airline crate, touch the door, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. With a mesh crate, lift the door slightly off the roof, then replace, click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and move back out of the crate so the dog can exit. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.

17. Gradually move the door toward the closed position until it is completely closed. Build the dog up to the point that he can remain in position inside the crate, with it closed for 20-30 seconds, before actually latching the door. Dogs with a history of disliking a crate will need a long time at this step to become comfortable with the crate door closing.

18. Continue to increase the time the dog is inside the crate, with the door latched. If the dog stands up or scratches at the door, say “Uh uh” and cue the dog to lie down again. If he does not lie down, reach in and lure him back into position, tell him to stay, close the door again momentarily, then click and quickly reach inside to offer the treat. Say “Okay” and open the door fully so the dog can exit.

19. Once the dog is able to lie down in the crate for one to two hours, always give him something nice to eat or chew to pass the time, such as a stuffed Kong, Goodie Ship, Dentabone, Greenie, or chew bone. Skip this step if the dog is inclined to guard these items because it is imperative that you can remove them each time you allow the dog to exit the crate.

20. As the dog tolerates longer periods of time in the crate, vary your position so you are not always sitting right by the crate. Sit farther away, stand up, move about the room, etc. Make sure the dog is comfortable with you moving about the room before you ever attempt to leave the room or the house. Some dogs may never be able to tolerate staying in the crate while you engage in an activity they consider fun, such as sweeping the floor, playing with your child, visiting with guests, or training another pet. If you must crate the dog at these times, it is better to move the crate to a more isolated location. Alternatively, you may have to put up with the dog barking and scratching to be released. Any time the dog is whining, barking, or scratching to be released from the crate, always cue the dog to sit or lie down before opening the door. The dog will learn that sitting or lying down is the best way to get you to open the door. Make sure you don’t inadvertently teach the dog to whine, bark, or scratch to be released. Just make sure that most of the time you release the dog from the crate before he engages in these behaviors. If you find that he is always demanding to be released, you need to go back to the beginning steps and build up his comfort level again.

[Yo Adrian!]

1ST AGAIN!! what the heck I am greatest at this game...

great post tho AGAIN LOCA

[LiiL_L0cz]

Introduction

Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.


A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.


Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.


We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.


Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.


Wire Mesh type:Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.


Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.


Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.


Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.


Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy.


Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:




Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.


In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

[LiiL_L0cz]

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.


It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.


A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.


Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]


Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:



The pup is too young to have much control.


The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.


The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.


The pup has worms.


The pup has gaseous or loose stools.


The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.


The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.


The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)


The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone

[LiiL_L0cz]

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.


Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.




Crating Duration Guidelines


9-10 Weeks
Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks
Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks
Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks
Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)



*NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)


The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]


Children And The Crate
Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.


Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

[LiiL_L0cz]

When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:



s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.


s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.


s/he is vomiting.


you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.


s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.
(See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)


the temperature is excessively high.


s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.



Buying a Crate

Where to buy a crate: Crates can be purchased through most pet supply outlets, through pet mail order catalogs and through most professional breeders. Some examples are:

Crate Size and Manufacturers:
Dog Size:

Small: (Vari-Kennel #100 or General Cage #201)
Toy Poodles, the Maltese, etc., with average weight of 6-10 lbs.

Medium Small: (Vari-Kennel #200 or General Cage #202/212)
Mini Schnauzers, Jack Russells, etc., with average weight of 11-20 lbs.

Medium: (Vari-Kennel #300 or General Cage #203/213)
Cocker Spaniels, Field Spaniels, small Shelties, etc., with average weight of 21-40 lbs.

Large: (Vari-Kennel #400 or General Cage #204/214)
Huskies, large Samoyeds, small Golden Retrievers, etc., with average weight of 41-65 Ibs.

Very Large: (Vari-Kennel #500 or General Cage #205/215)
German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Rottweilers, etc., with average weight of 67-100 lbs.

Extra Large: (General Cage #206 or Mid-West #89-Z, 89-E or 99)
Newfoundlands, Great Danes, etc, with average weight of 110 lbs. plus.



The Cost of A Crate

Crates can cost between $35 and $150 depending on the size and the type of crate and the source.



The Cost of Not Buying a Crate


The cost of not using a crate:


your shoes


books


table legs;


chairs and sofas;


throw rugs and carpet, and


electric, telephone and computer wires.


The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your peace of mind.


Alternative Method Of Confining Your Puppy


There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies who must be left alone in the house for lengths of time exceeding the recommended maximum duration of confinement (see Crating Duration Guidelines). We suggest the following:


Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom or hallway with non- porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3') using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather than shutting off the opening by a solid door. Your pup will feel less isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement. Puppy proof the area by removing any dangerous objects or substances.

http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.html

[Peanutsmommy]

crates are okay...if your dog is not an escape artist and destroys the crate while you think they are safe in it....:o Peanut has a hallway now lol

[APBTMOMMY]

Lol I here ya there PM. Good post LIL....:)